Olive groves, island shores, migration routes. A province worth slowing down for.
A long stretch of coast between the Marmara and the northern Aegean, anchored by Ayvalık and its olive oil culture, with islands, bird wetlands, thermal springs and Mount Ida in the same province.
Ayvalık is the anchor. The town has been an olive oil centre for centuries and the architecture shows it: stone houses, church towers and factory chimneys now repurposed as boutique hotels. Cunda Island, connected by causeway, holds the restored Taksiyarhis Church and some of the best seafood meyhanes in the country, with 22 small islands of the Ayvalık National Park within reach by boat in an afternoon. South of the town the Edremit Gulf coast and Mount Ida (Kaz Dağları) rise straight from the sea.
Further north, Manyas Kuşcenneti holds 266 bird species, including breeding pelicans and spoonbills, on the main migration corridor between three continents. The Kapıdağ Peninsula projects into the Marmara from Erdek with pine forest and calm bays and almost no tourist infrastructure. Inland, the Gönen thermal springs have been used since antiquity. Pergamon and Assos, both in neighbouring provinces, are an easy day each from an Ayvalık base.
Eight places worth your time. Tap a photograph, the map will follow.
A former Greek olive oil city evacuated in the 1923 population exchange and resettled. The old town survives largely intact: stone townhouses, a clocktower mosque (the Saatlı Cami, the converted church of Agios Yannis), narrow market lanes and the smell of olive oil from small-scale producers still operating in the old factory buildings. The waterfront fills with fishing boats in the morning and the evening light is exceptional. 22 islands are visible from the shore.
Erdek is the gateway to the Kapıdağ Peninsula, once an island and now connected to the mainland by a narrow tombolo, projecting 30 km into the Marmara Sea. The peninsula is covered in pine and olive forest with very little development. The road circumnavigating it is one of the best coastal drives in the region. The ancient city of Kyzikos, once one of the wealthiest cities of the ancient Greek world, lies ruined on the peninsula floor. Ferries from Erdek connect to Avşa, Marmara and Paşalimanı islands.
The mountain the ancients called Mount Ida, rising 1,774 metres straight from the Aegean above the Edremit Gulf. A protected national park of pine forest, endemic fir, cold springs and waterfalls, the mythological seat of the gods in the Iliad. Walking trails of all lengths lead to the Hasanboğuldu and Sutüven waterfalls, and the small wooden villages on the foothills, Adatepe and Yeşilyurt, are now bases for weekend retreats and olive oil hotels.
An archipelago of 22 islands off the Ayvalık coast, designated a national park, with crystal-clear Aegean water, pine forest and the famous Şeytan Sofrası (Devil's Dinner Table) viewpoint on Alibey Island. Boat trips from Ayvalık harbour visit multiple islands with swimming stops. The light on the water in the late afternoon, with the islands silhouetted against the Aegean, is exceptional.
Connected to Ayvalık by causeway, Cunda was a prosperous Greek island until 1923 and the stone architecture of that period survives in considerable density. The Taksiyarhis Church, a large 19th-century Greek Orthodox cathedral, has been restored and operates as a Rahmi M. Koç museum. The waterfront meyhanes are the best place to eat seafood in the province. The island is walkable and the back streets are worth an afternoon. Come for dinner and stay to watch the boats come in at dusk.
Turkey's smallest national park by protected area and arguably its most ecologically significant. The park sits on the northeast shore of Lake Manyas on the main migration route between Asia, Europe and Africa. In spring and summer, crested pelicans, spoonbills, night herons, cormorants and great white pelicans nest in the waterside poplars in visible colonies. The observation tower gives direct sightlines into the nesting area. 266 bird species recorded. Open Tuesday to Sunday. 18 km south of Bandırma.
Gönen has been known for its thermal springs since antiquity. The water reaches 78 degrees at source and feeds a series of hotels and public bath facilities in the town. Several hotels in Gönen pump the thermal water directly into private room baths. The springs are rich in radon and minerals and attract a largely domestic Turkish clientele year round. A working, unpretentious alternative to the more touristic spa resorts found elsewhere in Turkey. 100 km northwest of Balıkesir city centre.
The Edremit Gulf - the southernmost bay of the Aegean Turkish coast - is flanked by olive groves that produce some of Turkey's finest olive oil, with Kaz Dağları (Mount Ida, of Trojan War fame) rising directly behind the coastal towns of Altınoluk, Akçay and Edremit. The combination of olive culture, Aegean coast and mythological landscape makes this corner of Balıkesir worth a dedicated visit.
Balıkesir's food is built on olive oil. The province, particularly around Ayvalık, Edremit and Burhaniye, produces some of Turkey's finest extra virgin olive oil, and it appears in everything: the mezes, the fish preparations, the breads and the pastries. The Marmara and Aegean coastlines mean fresh seafood throughout the year. Inland, cooking shifts toward lamb and slow-cooked legumes.
Cunda's classic seafood meyhanes and family lokantas, plus Ayvalık's antique-shop café and pide house, and the Susurluk highway tost-and-ayran institution
A small, family-run lokanta on a quiet street in Cunda, a short walk from the busy waterfront. Home-style daily dishes, fresh local fish, baked aubergine and a long meze list, all at fair prices and served by the owners themselves. The treats and warmth of the welcome make it many regulars' favourite on the island.
A small meyhane in a restored 1880s stone house on Cunda, run by a Cretan-origin family. The walled courtyard is the heart of the place, with daily mezes, charcoal-grilled sardines and dishes specific to Cunda like pickled sardines with orange peel. Quieter than the waterfront, and one of the most authentic dinners on the island.
A graffiti-covered island meyhane on Cunda's main square, with the cheerful slogan "neşe ile içiniz" (drink with joy). Daily mezes including shrimp manti, Cretan ezme and stuffed zucchini flowers, fair prices and the kind of crowded summer-night atmosphere that defines a Cunda meyhane evening. Lively rather than refined.
A classic Cunda meyhane on the main square with Greek music in the background and a long, well-stocked meze list. The cold plates lead the order: octopus, samphire, ezme and stuffed vegetables, before grilled fish and a chocolate soufflé to finish. Friendly waiters, busy in season and a reliable evening on the island.
A small, warm family-run pide and lahmacun place in the centre of Ayvalık old town, much loved by both locals and returning visitors. The kıymalı kaşarlı pide is the order of choice, alongside lahmacun, künefe and friendly, attentive service. Honest, well-priced food and a welcome alternative to the heavier meyhane evenings on Cunda.
A small antique-shop café in the Ayvalık flea market quarter, decorated with old furniture, vintage glassware and a calm garden corner. The desserts are the headline: damla sakızı muhallebi (mastic milk pudding), magnolia and almond puddings, and Turkish coffee from a copper pot. As much a stop for the atmosphere as the sweets.
A modern dessert and coffee shop on Atatürk Boulevard with a clean terrace looking across to Cunda Island. The Bolu-trained pastry house brings höşmerim, crème caramel and the lighter end of regional sweets, alongside good Turkish coffee. The terrace view of the bay and the smaller crowds make it an easy daytime stop.
A roadside stop in Susurluk town on the highway between Balıkesir and Bursa, doing the dish that gave the town its national reputation. The order is always the same: thick foamy Susurluk ayran in a copper bowl with a butter-grilled cheese-and-sucuk sandwich. A natural break on the drive in or out of Balıkesir.
The peak breeding season is March to July. Come before 08:00 when the nesting colonies are most active and the light is best for photography. The observation tower gives direct sightlines into the pelican and spoonbill colonies at close range. Bring binoculars and a telephoto lens if you have one; the park loans binoculars at the entrance. The drive from Bandırma takes 20 minutes. Open Tuesday to Sunday. Combined with an afternoon in Erdek, this makes a full day without rushing.
The road circumnavigating the Kapıdağ Peninsula from Erdek is approximately 95 km and takes three to four hours without stops. Several small bays along the north shore have no infrastructure and are reachable by a short walk from the road. The ruins of Kyzikos, once among the richest cities of the ancient Greek world, lie in open fields near Erdek and are freely accessible. A car is required; there is no public transport on the peninsula. Best done early in the day before the heat builds in summer.
Day-long boat tours from Ayvalık harbour visit several of the 22 islands in the archipelago, stopping at swimming bays with clear North Aegean water. Tours run June to October, departing around 10:00 and returning by 17:00. The Devil's Dinner Table rock formation viewpoint, Seytan Sofrasi, gives a panoramic view over the island chain at sunset and is reachable by car or taxi from Ayvalık. Good for photography in late afternoon when the light is behind the islands.
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