The city where two continents meet and centuries live side by side
The only city that straddles two continents, and for fifteen centuries the capital of empires. Byzantium, Constantinople, Istanbul, three names for one of the great cities of the world.
The historic peninsula holds the heart of it: Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque facing each other across a garden, Topkapi Palace above the water, and the covered lanes of the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar. Most of it sits within walking distance, layered Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman on the same streets.
But the city lives on the Bosphorus. Ferries cross between Europe and Asia all day, fish sandwiches grill by the Galata Bridge, and the waterfront neighbourhoods from Karakoy to Kadikoy are where the real life of the city happens. Give it at least three days, and cross to the Asian side at least once.
Eight places worth your time. Tap a photograph, the map will follow.
Built in 537 AD, Hagia Sophia was the largest cathedral in the world for almost a thousand years. It became a mosque under the Ottomans and is now an active place of worship again. The massive dome and Byzantine mosaics are the main reason people visit Istanbul. Best visited early morning or late afternoon.
Home to Ottoman sultans for nearly 400 years. The palace has four courtyards, a treasury with the Spoonmaker's Diamond, the Harem quarters and views over the Bosphorus and Golden Horn. Allow at least three hours and buy the separate ticket for the Harem, it is worth it.
Smaller than the Grand Bazaar but more fragrant and far less tiring. Spices, Turkish delight, teas, dried fruits and nuts fill the L-shaped market near the Galata Bridge. Great for picking up gifts and food souvenirs. Stop at the surrounding shops for some of the best Turkish delight in the city.
The last great palace of the Ottoman Empire, built in 1856 on the European shore of the Bosphorus in a blend of Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical styles. 285 rooms, 46 halls, a crystal staircase and the largest Bohemian crystal chandelier in the world. Atatürk died here in 1938 - his bedroom is preserved as a memorial. Guided tours only; book online to avoid long queues at the gate.
Built in the early 1600s and famous for its six minarets and over 20,000 blue Iznik tiles inside. It sits directly opposite Hagia Sophia. Entry is free and the mosque is open to visitors outside prayer times. Dress modestly and remove shoes at the door.
One of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world with over 4,000 shops across 60 streets. You can find ceramics, carpets, gold, lamps and spices. Bargaining is expected. Closed on Sundays. Get lost for an hour then exit, it is part of the experience.
The 14th-century Genoese tower stands 67 metres tall with a 360-degree view of old Istanbul, the Bosphorus and Golden Horn. Go up at sunset for the best photos. The surrounding Galata neighbourhood has cafes, boutiques and narrow historic streets worth exploring on foot.
The largest imperial mosque in Istanbul, commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent in 1550 and designed by the great architect Mimar Sinan. Perched on the third hill of the old city with views over the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus. The interior - lighter and more serene than the Blue Mosque - is considered Sinan's finest work. The courtyard cemetery contains the tombs of both Suleiman and Sinan himself.
Istanbul's food scene is the most diverse in Turkiye. Four hundred years of imperial kitchens meet centuries of migration from every corner of the old Ottoman empire. From a simple fish sandwich by the water to a late dinner in Beyoglu, Istanbul gives you a different food memory every day.
From Michelin-starred kitchens to the institutions locals have trusted for generations
On the rooftop of The Peninsula at Galataport, chef Fatih Tutak's Turk-Asian menu traces the old Silk Road from Anatolia to China. Bosphorus views, a three-day köfte and a tandoori duck worth the trip. In the Michelin Guide.
On the rooftop of the Marmara Pera, chef Mehmet Gürs draws on his Turkish-Scandinavian background for a daily-changing menu. Michelin-starred, with panoramic views over the old city and Golden Horn and one of the city's best terraces for a drink.
On the top floor of the Novotel in Karaköy, built around an open fire where meat and fish hang to dry. Smoky, bold, fire-driven cooking and a terrace looking across to the historic peninsula. In the Michelin Guide.
A legendary Kadıköy restaurant serving forgotten Anatolian recipes. Chef Musa Dağdeviren travels to remote villages to recover dishes. The daily menu changes constantly and runs far beyond the usual kebab and meze.
A small Asmalımescit spot serving the food of Antakya, where Turkish, Syrian, Lebanese and Ottoman flavours meet. The mezze spread is the thing to order, alongside the kebabs and wood-fired flatbreads.
Classic Urfa-style kebabs right next to the Spice Bazaar. The top floor terrace looks over the Golden Horn, Galata Tower and the Süleymaniye Mosque. Come at sunset.
Open since 1933 on the Asian side in Üsküdar. Traditional Turkish home cooking, classic recipes, reasonable prices. This is where you eat proper old Istanbul food.
Everyone's favourite Turkish breakfast spot in Cihangir. A full spread of eastern Anatolian cheeses, honey, clotted cream, eggs and fresh bread. Arrive early on weekends.
A no-frills Black Sea kitchen just off İstiklal in Beyoğlu, open since 2009. Hot dishes laid out at the counter: black cabbage soup, anchovy pilaf, kuru fasulye, muhlama and warm cornbread on the house. Cheap, honest and exactly where locals go for a proper lunch.
A 19th-century Ottoman house in Ahırkapı, Sultanahmet, with a vine-shaded courtyard. Chef Ayşe Şensılay cooks the Cretan-Aegean food of her roots: a long spread of seasonal mezze, the signature girit mezesi and grilled octopus, then fresh fish. A Michelin Bib Gourmand.
A two-hour public ferry from Eminonu up the Bosphorus passes palaces, fortresses and waterside mansions. Much cheaper than the tourist boats and often less crowded. Go on a clear day and sit on the upper deck.
Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern and Topkapi Palace are all within a 15-minute walk of each other. Start at sunrise to beat the tour groups. Budget a full day for all four sites and you still will not see everything.
Take the ferry to the Asian side in the morning. Eat breakfast in Moda, wander through the Kadikoy food market, have a late lunch at Ciya. Calmer, more local, and far less touristy than Beyoglu.
A proper hamam visit is a classic Istanbul experience. Cagaloglu Hamam, open since 1741, or the more recent Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami in Tophane. Reserve in advance and go for the full scrub and foam treatment.
Start at Galata Tower, walk down the hill through narrow stone streets into Karakoy for coffee. Continue up Istiklal Street through the heart of Beyoglu. Stop at Cicek Pasaji and the side streets for meyhane dinner.
A 90-minute ferry from Eminonu reaches Buyukada, the largest island. Cars are banned. Rent a bicycle, eat fish for lunch by the harbour and visit the 19th-century wooden mansions. A perfect weekend escape.
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