The Aegean pearl where ancient history meets relaxed coastal living
Three thousand years of history wrapped around a bay. Ephesus to the south, vineyards and beaches to the west, and a sunset the whole Kordon turns out to watch.
Once ancient Smyrna, now Turkey's third city. Most of what you come for sits within walking distance of the water: the 17th-century Kemeraltı bazaar, the Roman Agora two blocks inland, and the Kordon, six kilometres of seafront where ferries cross the bay and the whole city walks at sunset.
It is also the best base for the rest of the Aegean. Ephesus is an hour south, Pergamon a hundred kilometres north, and the wine country of Urla, the stone-and-tile village of Alaçatı and the beaches of Çeşme are all an easy day trip west.
Eight places worth your time. Tap a photograph, the map will follow.
One of the best preserved ancient cities in the Mediterranean. The Library of Celsus, the Great Theatre and the marble-paved Curetes Street are all unforgettable. Budget half a day, start early, and add the Terrace Houses ticket to see mosaic-floored Roman villas.
A sprawling 17th-century bazaar that stretches from the waterfront inland. Spices, ceramics, silver, textiles and some of the best street food in the city. Stop at Kizlaragasi Han, the restored Ottoman caravanserai, for coffee in its courtyard.
White sand beaches, hot springs, the restored Genoese castle and the laid-back town of Cesme itself. Ilica Beach has shallow warm water ideal for families, while Altinkum to the south is quieter and more beautiful.
Built in 1907 in the Karatas district to connect the seafront with the steep hill above it, the Asansor is one of İzmir's most beloved landmarks. Two brick towers house the elevators that carry you up 51 metres to a terrace with the best panoramic view over the bay, especially at sunset. The neighbourhood below, once home to the city's Jewish community, has narrow streets and the famous Dario Moreno lane.
Izmir's long seafront promenade with palm trees, open-air cafes and ferry terminals. Locals walk, jog and sit here every evening. Catch the sunset ferry across the bay to Karsiyaka and back, one of the most relaxing hours in the city.
A quiet fishing town an hour northwest of İzmir, built over the ancient Ionian city of Phokaia whose sailors founded Marseille. Pastel stone houses line a working harbour full of small boats, seafront fish restaurants fill at lunch, and the rocky coves just outside are home to a protected colony of Mediterranean monk seals. A slow, unspoilt alternative to the busier resort towns.
The symbol of İzmir, standing in Konak Square right on the waterfront. Built in 1901 in an ornate Ottoman style, the 25-metre tower is decorated with fountains and marble columns, framed by palm trees and clouds of pigeons. It is the natural starting point for a walk along the Kordon or into the Kemeralti bazaar just behind it.
A hillside village 8 km from Selçuk (Ephesus), with old stone and plaster houses, a 19th-century Greek Orthodox church and wine shops selling fruit wines made from local produce. The village was settled by Greek Orthodox Christians until the 1923 population exchange, and the architecture and street layout retain their pre-exchange character. Best visited in the morning before the day-trip crowds from Kuşadası arrive.
Izmir food is pure Aegean. Olive oil, wild herbs, fresh fish and vegetables from fertile hillsides. The city has its own beloved snacks and a strong Greek and Sephardic heritage in the kitchen. Meals here are lighter than the rest of Turkiye, more about quality ingredients than heavy sauces.
A few Michelin tables out in Urla and Alaçatı, plus the boyoz, kumru, grilled fish and meyhane culture from the food guide above
Chef Osman Sezener's farm-to-table restaurant in an olive grove outside Urla, holding a Michelin Star and Green Star. The name means fire in old Turkish, and wood and charcoal drive a modern Aegean kitchen built on the restaurant's own garden and zero-waste cooking. İzmir's reference table. Book well ahead.
A vineyard restaurant outside Urla under Chef Osman Serdaroğlu, holding a Michelin Star and, since 2026, a Green Star. A less-is-more approach built on the essence of local ingredients, with a theme of Roots and Layers exploring the Aegean soil. Tasting, vegetarian and à la carte menus, with one of the region's best wine pairings.
A Bib Gourmand stone courtyard restaurant in the heart of Alaçatı, famous for Aegean wild herb mezes, the exact ot dishes from the food guide above. The appetizer trolley rolls to your table with thirty or more small plates and you choose what you want. A magical, affordable summer dinner.
An İzmir classic on the Kordon waterfront, serving Aegean seafood since 1975 and long an İzmir favourite in the city. Grilled sea bass and bream, octopus salad, cold olive-oil mezes and rakı, exactly the seafood-and-meze ritual the city is known for. The bay at sunset is the best table in town.
Open since 1952 and an Alsancak institution for kebabs. Adana, urfa and grilled lamb chops over charcoal, with the usual long lineup of mezes to start. Always busy, always reliable, completely unpretentious. The classic everyday İzmir dinner.
A lively Alsancak meyhane with live Turkish music most nights and the full rakı-and-meze experience from the food guide. Cold and hot mezes, grilled fish to follow, and a room that fills with song by midnight. Book a weekend table a few days ahead.
A seafood spot in the old harbour of Sığacık, 40 km from İzmir near Seferihisar. Whole grilled fish, seafood pasta and tables on the water, worth the drive for a long lunch away from the city. Pair it with a walk through the old castle village and the Saturday market.
The most famous boyoz bakery in İzmir, the pastry from the food guide done the proper way. Hot from the oven, served with a boiled egg and tea. Small, no-frills, open since 1931. The essential İzmir breakfast stop, especially on a Saturday morning.
A full day at Ephesus, combined with the Virgin Mary's House, the Temple of Artemis and lunch in Sirince village. Drive down in the morning to beat the heat. One of the best single-day archaeology experiences in Turkiye.
The ten kilometre promenade from Alsancak to Konak at golden hour. Palm trees, grass lawns, cafes along the water and ferries silhouetted against the sunset. Follow with dinner at one of the open-air fish restaurants by the bay.
Alacati's Reef and Altinkum beaches are among the best windsurf spots in the world. Reliable steady winds, shallow water, and plenty of schools offering lessons and rentals. Beginners can learn the basics in a day.
A whitewashed mountain village about an hour south of Izmir, near Selçuk and 8 km from Ephesus, famous for fruit wines made from pomegranate, blackberry and quince. Visit in the morning, stop at the small wineries, then have lunch at one of the stone cottage restaurants.
The ruins of Pergamon sit on a dramatic acropolis two hours north of Izmir. One of the steepest theatres of the ancient world. Combine with the ancient healing centre of Asclepion at its base. Less visited than Ephesus and just as impressive.
Take a gulet or speedboat charter from Cesme marina and anchor in the coves of Ildirlik and Karaburun. The water is clear, the hills behind are dry and fragrant with sage. A classic Aegean boat day with swimming, lunch and naps on deck.
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